Why Study Wolof? - Student Essays

Vanessa, Fall 2004

As I sit here listening to a CD from Senegal, I am listening to music that reminds me of what I have experienced in the Senegalese culture. I have been fortunate to have a few Senegalese friends who have helped to show me and introduction to the culture of Senegal. Although there are many aspects of the culture that I enjoy, the Senegalese tea party has helped me to understand and grasp a culture that I find fascinating. Because I have attended a tea party as well as associated with my friends, I find an interesting connection between the tea party and the way that the Senegalese people that I know live their life.

The tea parties that I have attended did not just center on the tea that my friends were drinking; but also on dancing, laughter, fun, food, and conversation. Many friends and family attend the party and I can not say that one would have to be invited to a tea party, because invitations do not seem necessary. The atmosphere of a tea party is one of openness and respect. As long as one has good intentions to have a good time, all is fair game. The conversation at the tea party often times revolves around family and friends. It seems as though Senegalese have a close connection of respect and love for their friends and family…one that is not always seen in America. Religion is one of the most important topics at the tea parties I have been to, and it is openly and freely discussed.

At most tea parties food is also presented. In my opinion, the food is deliciously tantalizing…it makes my mouth water to talk about it! Senegalese food is a topic of itself because it seems to be important and meaningful. To try it is a treat.

However, my personal favorite aspect of the tea party is the music and dancing. There is nothing quite as entertaining as watching authentic Senegalese dancing. Rhythm seems to have been acquired at birth for many of the dancers that I have seen perform. It is so fascinating to watch because the moves are very different from the American dance moves. They are lively and free and fun. It’s much too difficult to express in words the feeling that I get when watching Senegalese dance. Their music and videos speak of love, life, religion, and other important yet fascinating topics.

As you can see, many aspects of the Senegalese culture are expressed during a tea party. I feel that my attendance at tea parties has played an integral part of my knowledge about Senegalese culture; a culture that I feel thankful to for teaching me about myself and others.

Erin Walker

By attending the University of Kansas I was blessed to become friends with Senegalese natives. After learning some of the language and interesting facts about the culture I decided that it would be perfect to take a trip there and experience the Wolof speaking culture for myself. Before getting off the plane in Dakar I didn’t really know what to expect from this two-week adventure to the faraway African continent I had heard so much about, but had not yet had the chance to explore. My decision to go to Senegal had been made so rapidly that I was barely conscious of my choice until the week before my departure. I was most excited to go to Senegal to get a refreshing outlook on life and to experience a different culture with diverse values. My favorite part of traveling to different countries is meeting people who have grown up in more diverse environments and societies than I am used to. As soon as I arrived in Dakar, I was thrown into the Senegalese culture and was forced to immediately immerse ourselves in everything we saw from that point forward. My experience in Senegal was one rich in observation and reflection as well as an immersion into the culture and direct interaction with the people. Although I wish I could have stayed longer, this two-week excursion opened my eyes to a different part of the world that is unknown and misunderstood to a large part of the globe.

The first few days I spent in Dakar was very difficult for me. I could not sleep due to the change of environment and the various noises that define Dakar and my experience. The first few nights I spent lying in bed listening to the frightening sound of airplanes taking off and landing about a mile from my bed. My ears were also tuned to the joyous and exhilarating reverberation of festive African music penetrating the walls of my room. I heard the first call to prayer of the day, at 5 o’clock in the morning. This peaceful, beautiful chant was joined by the dogs in the neighborhood who simultaneously began their own “call to prayer” consisting of high-pitch barking, which continued until their voices went hoarse and the prayer ended. I did not have an easy time adjusting to the different culture and the environment in which I was living. I felt extremely alienated from the culture, the only thing that connected me and the Senegalese people was the fact that I had tucked a little bit of the language under my belt.

Before coming to Senegal I was under the impression that it was less of a Francophone country, which meant to me that the French language played a less important part in their everyday life, and I knew that Wolof was their national language. Although the French language does hold an essential role in the written life of Senegal, Wolof is the primary spoken language and the maternal tongue of many Senegalese. Unless the Senegalese speak directly to a French-speaking foreigner, they speak Wolof or another African dialect. Therefore, I wasn’t clearly a foreigner because of my skin color, I also was able to communicate in the primary Senegalese language, which kept me from feeling lost and alienated the majority of the time.

The language paradox in Senegal shows the long-lasting effects of colonization, as French continues to hold precedence as the written language and the language used in all official and governmental documents and procedures. Before traveling to Senegal I was unaware of the severity of the language dilemma facing many Senegalese today. In the lectures given by various Senegalese intellectuals and writers I learned that although Wolof is the mother tongue of many Senegalese, this language holds no importance officially. For example, in order for any work of literature or any Senegalese author to be recognized, the work must be published in French, in a Western country. This precedent makes it appear that the Senegalese language is not a real, respectable language and undermines its importance outside of Senegal, as well as the ability of Senegal to exist without the influence of its former colonial power. It is also very different for a Senegalese writer to express themselves in their mother tongue, rather than in a language that is not their own, and consequently the language barrier changes the meaning of their work. The works also can only reach a certain audience because a large percentage of the population is not literate in French. Many Senegalese authors are beginning to write in Wolof, which is changing the world of African literature and will help preserve this African language, as many Africans are afraid that soon African languages will be lost to the colonial languages. Furthermore, all official documents and governmental procedures are conducted in French. What is shocking is the procedure that occurs during a court case when the defendant only speaks Wolof. Although everyone in the courtroom may speak Wolof, including the judge, the lawyers and the defendant, the case is still conducted in French and when the defendant does not speak French, the court is required to use an interpreter so that the case is carried out in French. Even if they were to conduct the case in Wolof, all the paperwork would still remain in French. Additionally, most African films are usually shown in Western countries, such as in France or in the United States, to gain recognition and praise before they are viewed in any African country. These examples are only a few among many which show the continued struggle Senegal faces with gaining power and recognition outside of Senegal and Africa and within the international arena. Although Senegal gained independence from the French in 1960, they have still not been able to totally escape the influence and control of the French imperial power. Maybe as generations pass Wolof will become more instilled in Senegal culture.

The most drastic cultural difference experienced in Senegal is the religion: Senegal is 90% Muslim and 10% Christian. The Senegalese culture and their way of life are very much regulated by religion. The call to prayer is heard throughout the city five times a day and many stop what they are doing to pray. During the afternoon call to prayer almost everyone was facing east with his or her heads down praying. I am religious myself, so I found it really fascinating to talk to Senegalese people about their religious beliefs. Many of the Senegalese I spoke with seem to believe that God is responsible for everything that happens in life. They believe God is watching over us and will either award us for our good actions or penalize us for those of us who commit evil acts. In almost every conversation the phrase inshallah, if God wills it, is uttered, which shows their strong relation with their God. In only two weeks in Senegal I learned a lot about Islam, which I previously knew very little about, and many of my previous ideas about the religion were changed. For example, I did not see very many women wearing headscarves, which is how the Western media normally portrays Muslim women. It was quite fascinating to experience the religious aspect of Senegalese culture as it completely changed my understanding and vision of Islam, which was originally formed by Western media and by its reputation in the West.

Despite the many cultural differences between Senegalese and American culture I found myself falling in love with the Senegalese people. By the second week I was beginning to feel more comfortable in the foreign environment. Everywhere I went I seemed to meet wonderful people who were so generous, open-minded and full of life. Although I was still greeted with gawking eyes, especially from children, I no longer felt like a complete outsider. I met various Senegalese people who within hours became my friends and welcomed me into their houses and lives. I learned so much about Senegal and their culture simply by talking with them. My knowledge that Senegal is full of intellectual and artistic individuals was reinforced by my conversations and my experiences. I had been told that Senegal was the best country in Africa and although this was my first time in Africa, it did not seem difficult to believe. They told me that they do not believe in war or conflict because they are simply concerned with living a happy life and enjoying and appreciating everything that is made available to them. I also found that many of the Senegalese whom I met are strong individuals with great values, which seems to stem from a mix of their religious beliefs and their African traditions. My Wolof instructor Alassane Fall is a great representation of all these things. I found that I was always stimulated by the conversations and captivated by their beliefs and values. It was clear to me that the Senegalese culture was rich in intellect, art, music and tradition and above all their love for life. I could see this in the smiling faces of the children and feel it from the energy of my peers and elders. I knew I was in a country where the people were genuinely caring and loving whether you are a family member or a foreign white woman on the street. The fact that everyone appears to be a brother, sister, aunt or uncle, is a perfect example which shows that everyone is family in Senegal regardless of your skin color. At the end of the two weeks, I had finally become comfortable and content in this new place and did not want to leave. I met individuals in those two weeks with whom I know I will cross paths with again in the future.

Getting off the plane in Dakar the first Friday night and stepping into the mass of darkness, into the foreign city, I was a little nervous and did not know what to expect of the following two weeks. However, returning to the airport at the end of the trip, I no longer felt like I was leaving a place that I neither knew nor understood. Senegal was no longer a foreign place in my mind, but instead it was a warm place full of life, color and beauty. I felt like during those two weeks I had experienced and become familiar with a small part of the culture and the life in Senegal, something that I will never forget but will always remember as my first adventure into the once unknown African continent!

“I’M FINE YELLOW!!!”

Ryan Lash, Fall 2005

We are directed downstairs, moving briefly through the far corner of the cramped kitchen which has been wafting rich aromas throughout the house since I arrived. A large worn steel pot is cradled between two burners on the four-burner stove. On the floor sits a blue Rubbermade container with a mixture of meat, rice and spices.

In the basement, the chair has two people in it, the loveseat has three. The couch is overflowing with five people, perhaps six if you count the one on the armrest. As more Senegalese people arrive, floor space also becomes limited, but the room remains comfortably warm. Fortunately their bodies are slender and their step light, so they’re able to move in-and-out of the room and up-and-down the stairs with ease.

While the men come from a divided variety of places across Senegal, they all seem unified into a close-knit family unit having arrived in Lawrence, Kansas. Sitting in the windowless basement of a three-story duplex quickly blurs the lines between the places of Kansas and Senegal.

Adding to the mix is a used big screen television measuring forty or more inches across sitting next to a low bookshelf crammed full of American women’s romance novels. The old lamps of the television project a faded image from the BET channel on to the viewing screen. A hallmark of African American popular culture, my curiosity is perked as the room contains no African Americans…there is me sitting whitely on the side like lint on a dark sweater, two other Caucasian Americans women, and 10 or so Senegalese men ranging in age from just barely twenty to mid-thirties.

The Wolof language is spoken so quickly, I can barely make out a syllable, let alone a recognizable phrase. As a guest of my absent Wolof instructors, I feign a look of intensely focused listening, but really I’m listening more intently to the thoughts roll through my head, since they are in a language I understand. Willfully uncomfortable in this foreign environment, my eyes waltz around the room at the various conversations taking place. Occasionally, a warm, but seemingly curious glance returns my way, and I wonder just how many of them know of how this tubaab found his way to their intimate post-Ramadan feast.

I wonder how the Caucasian women, the American wives of several Senegalese men, feel about the social relations of the room. They sit near each other separate from their husbands and seemingly as far a way from the Wolof conversations as I am. They do not invite me into their English conversation, and there is no need to force myself into it, so I sit quietly observing more of my surroundings.
Ibrahim, whom I’d meet just a week or two before, leans over and asks how I am doing with a warm smile. I tell him I doing great, then turn my attention back to the Wolof conversation in the corner, hoping yet to make out one of my limited vocabulary words. When Badu arrives, we exchange pleasant greetings, as he assumes one of the remaining spots on the floor in front of the bookcase. I move next to him, as we continue talking about my upcoming travels.

As final preparations were made to eat, one of the women brings down two large colorful cloths, serving as large placemats for the giant dishes of ceeb-u yàpp which follow shortly. Two large platters, nearly half a meter square, are placed down on the floor, and quickly the men move to the perimeters of the dish. A hush falls over the room as the hungry fill their mouths with food. A cup with forks is brought down, but as I hoped, not everyone was using them. I ingest several mouthfuls of the juicy rice and vegetables, as I quietly observe how to eat with ones hand. I place my left hand far behind my back, so as to avoid reflexively using it as I might on a greasy piece of grandma’s fried chicken. With his right hand, one of the men pinches a small amount of rice with four fingers, then turns his palm upward, using his thumb to press the food into a small ball in his fingertips. Once the ball is formed, he quickly slide it into his mouth, like an oyster in the half-shell, but without any slurping sound.

I decide to give it a try. My first surprise as a I try to form the rice into a ball is just how juicy the food is, as my fingers shine brightly with oils dripping down them. As I plop the dollop of food into my mouth, my mind quickly conjure an image of me in just a few short months doing the same thing in Senegal.

Whether it is ceeb-u yapp again, or the much talked about ceeb-u jën, based on my first tastes here, I am certainly going to like eating in Senegal.

Robert Claire, Fall 2005

Imagine sitting on the floor in front of a huge plate of rice and lamb, your fingers covered in the tasty rice, while you struggle to hold a conversation with the five other Senegalese people around you and stuff your mouth full of lamb at the same time. This perfectly describes my experiences with the Senegalese culture.

The people of Senegal are in one word, Charming. They will greet you with a friendly smile, make you laugh with a witty joke, offer you a warm meal, and then give you a great cup of tea.

They live life richly and fully, preferring intelligence, loyalty and happiness over prejudice and greed. They have close-knit families and enjoy being out in society and meeting new people. Senegalese people are able to talk to anyone, even a perfect stranger. They are hungry for knowledge and usually speak between 2-5 languages. This might include French, which is the national language, the common language of Wolof, a few other native languages, and then a western language like Spanish or English. They love to discuss politics, religion, and current events, and will usually cover these topics before they ask about the weather.

If you are invited to a Senegalese dinner, I know that it is an experience you will not soon forget. Upon your arrival to the Senegalese residence, you will be greeted by every person in the house, including the children. Senegalese children are very well mannered and curious. The adults may shake your hand, give you a hug, or kiss your cheeks in the European fashion. Whatever the method, you will understand that your presence is desired.

You will then experience the art of Senegalese conversation. They will bring up a plethora of topics, make amusing remarks, and ask you a lot of questions about yourself. People from this country are not shy, very curious, and generally happy to be talking to someone. You should sit back, relax, and enjoy this time!

You will be famished by this time, after participating in such a lively conversation. But have no fear! Your appetite will certainly be appeased when you start to eat their fabulous food. The meal will be prepared by the woman of the house and she will have great satisfaction by presenting her family and guest with such a delicious meal. A Senegalese woman can cook for an army and not even break a sweat. She will likely serve you one of the following popular and spicy meals: Ceebu Jen (rice and beef or lamb), Yassa (rice with chicken covered in an onion mustard sauce), Mafe (rice, chicken or beef covered in a peanut butter based sauce), or Supe Kenja (rice and fish). No matter what the dish I know you will be satisfied.

Traditionally, a meal would be eaten on the floor. The hostess would spread out a colorful table cloth and then place the platter of food on it. All of the guests would then remove their shoes and wash their hands. Using a fork is optional.

Following dinner you may be presented with Senegalese tea. This will be served in small cups and come in three turns. The first turn is very strong, and full of energy. The second one is milder and more relaxing. The third installment is like a dream, sweet and light. This tea aids in digestion, and will energize you before work.
Overall, you will find your experience with this culture to be very interesting and exciting. I know that you will be greeted warmly, laugh hard at their jokes, fill your tummy with a fabulous meal, and drink a great cup of tea.